Earlier this year we invited Jennifer 8 Lee, author of The Fortune Cookie Chronicles, to meet with our staff and share her insights into the mysteries of Chinese food. One topic that really caught our attention was the origin of the fortune cookie. You might be surprised to discover that fortune cookies are not a Chinese creation but rather an American one by way of Japan. I know I was surprised and I grew up around fortune cookies, although I always preferred almond cookies.
Excited about this revelation, research specialist Noriko Sanefuji went out to investigate. Armed with information from Ms. Lee, Noriko contacted Gary Ono, whose grandfather, Suyeichi Okamura, an immigrant from Japan, is one of the claimants to the original fortune cookie in the U.S.
Noriko Sanefuji (left) and Gary Ono (right).
In 1906, Suyeichi started Benkyodo, a Japanese confectionery store in San Francisco. The store supplied fortune cookies (Japanese fortune cookies are a regional delicacy and much larger than the ones we know) to Makoto Hagiwara, who ran the Japanese Tea Garden at the Golden Gate Park.
Mr. Ono showed Noriko a selection of antique sembei iron kata (hand skillet mold), which were used in the Japanese Tea Garden to make the fortune cookies one at a time. Although some of the katas were plain, others had engraved initials (M.H. for Makoto Hagiwara) or had logos for the Tea Garden (Mount Fuji with “Japan Tea”). Mr. Ono was kind enough to donate three katas to the Smithsonian.
Senbei irons. Gift of Suyeichi & Owai Okamura family, Benkyodo Co., San Francisco. Photo credit: Gary Ono.
(Left) Senbei iron with engraved initials, M.H. for Makoto Hagiwara.(Right) Senbei Iron with Japan Tea logo. Gifts of Suyeichi & Owai Okamura family, Benkyodo Co., San Francisco. Photo credits: Gary Ono.
Benkyodo continued to be the Japanese Tea Garden’s sole supplier of fortune cookies until the outbreak of World War II, when Japanese Americans in California were sent to internment camps. Chinese businessmen used the opportunity and started to produce their own fortune cookies, selling them to Chinese restaurants, and setting in motion an association between cookie and restaurant that continues today.
So what do you think? Did you know that about fortune cookies? I didn’t even get to the fortune part of the cookie. So I’ll leave you with this question, what is the best fortune you’ve ever gotten? And for those wondering, Gary says his grandfather resumed making fortune cookies after the war ended.
Cedric Yeh is Deputy Chair and Associate Curator in the Division of Armed Forces History and Noriko Sanefuji is a research specialist in the Division of Work and Industry at the National Museum of American History.
"Be mischievous and you will not be lonesome"
Posted by: Tom | July 08, 2010 at 09:17 PM
"May you live on moon in next century."
I got this at a Chinese buffet in Murfreesboro, TN. Heh.
Posted by: Gbleddynn | July 12, 2010 at 05:10 PM
Actual fortune cookie message I keep with me: "There is no time like the pleasant"
Posted by: Randall | July 12, 2010 at 05:11 PM
"You may be hungry soon, order takeout now."
Posted by: TeeVeeChick | July 12, 2010 at 05:11 PM
"About time someone let me out of that cookie!"
By far, my all-time favorite. We were in hysterics around the table.
Posted by: caroline | July 12, 2010 at 05:22 PM
No joke: "promote literacy buy a box of fortune cookies today."I can prove it too! Still have it!
Posted by: Beth | July 12, 2010 at 06:16 PM
With great power comes great responsibility.
Posted by: Nimalas | July 12, 2010 at 08:35 PM
"you will be going to Washington D.C.", which I got the week I was moving to DC from Boston.
Very odd and I've always remembered it.
Posted by: Connie R | July 12, 2010 at 10:33 PM
Wow! That is really surprising that fortune cookies are of US origin. I never liked to eat fortune cookie but I often open one in facebook to know my fortune! I tweet the fortune i get everyday(via TweetTwain by opening it, todays was "Humor usually works at the moment of awkwardness." :) which is really relevant to my situation. Thank you so much for this post and the blog, really an amazing and interesting blog to keep track with!
Regards,
Suchitra.
Posted by: suchitra | July 15, 2010 at 05:59 AM
"You will be successful at everything."
If only this one came true...
Posted by: Sarah | July 15, 2010 at 04:52 PM
"May you live on moon in next century."
I got this at a Chinese buffet in Murfreesboro, TN. Heh.
Posted by: Kel | July 18, 2010 at 12:48 PM
Really interesting post and what a great object to add to the national collection!
I've always been a fan of the fortunes that come with lotto numbers and "everyday Chinese" phrases--most of which aren't that "everyday" at all.
Also, reading all these fortunes makes me think of twitter--short and sweet, to the point.
Posted by: Jenny | July 23, 2010 at 09:55 AM
I know it will probably come as a great surprise to most people that fortune cookies were not a Chinese invention but as someone who grew up in the Far East I first encountered these delights when I came to the States.
Somehow though I think perhaps it is better if we don't spread the word too widely because American fortune cookies somehow seem to lose a little of their charm.
Posted by: Adelyn | July 26, 2010 at 11:05 AM
well i never. I have been eating in my local chinese restarant for years & have built up a close relationship with the owner, a really nice older chinses guy & his family but he tells me evrytime at the end of each meal when he brings over fortune cookies that they are started in China!!
Will have to send him this link now!
Or should , he might not be best pleased!
Thanks
Mark
Posted by: Mark Jones | July 27, 2010 at 07:01 AM
"There is a very special time for your dreamed success to become reality. It is now."
Posted by: Tea kinds explorer | July 29, 2010 at 09:52 AM
Thanks. Always wanted to know where fortune cookies came from. Lol.
Posted by: Dallas | September 01, 2010 at 03:00 PM
I have been eating in my local chinese restarant for years & have built up a close relationship with the owner, a really nice older chinses guy & his family but he tells me evrytime at the end of each meal when he brings over fortune cookies that they are started in China!!
Posted by: lingxin34 | September 04, 2010 at 04:34 AM